Final Post: Reunion Day

The sabbatical journey came to an official end last Sunday morning with "Reunion Day" worship and lunch at Church of the Palms. Clint Reynolds delivered a stirring sermon, "Pilgrims," and then returned the bible and stole I entrusted to him on May 31. A wonderful salad-and-sandwich lunch followed in King Hall with some Q&A about the summer journey.

The festivities included some terrific cakes... one is shown here. Thank you to everyone who was involved in the planning!

This has been a busy week of re-engaging with the ministry here, evaluating reports of the summer, and ramping up for what promises to be a busy and fruitful Fall.

So... pondering much, with insights still to come... onward!

Home Again

Our bodies are slowly re-orienting to the 9-hour time difference; it is amazing how productive I can be at 3 a.m. Our flights home were flawless, but long (2 hours to London, then 11 to Phoenix with a 2 hour layover in London). Harold and Rosemary Armbrust met us at Sky Harbor and whisked us home.
It is amazing how quickly it seemed as though we never left... how does that work? (If we were suddenly back in Paris, I am sure it would seem the same there.)
Happily, things were pretty good at the house. Ninety percent of the courtyard landscaping survived. Liz' car had a dead battery (it was six years old... not bad). A few bills needed IMMEDIATE attention, which they received. (The amount of mail that accumulates in 90 days is staggering; thanks, Cindy, for tending to that.) There were some high-tech matters to address that (of course) took more time to correct than expected. But all-in-all, no complaints.
I have made a few short visits to the church, and Liz goes back to work tonight. This Sunday will be "Reunion Day" at church, and Clint Reynolds will turn over the keys to my office... I hope. A lunch {free} will follow the service, and we will share briefly about my sabbatical and the church's renewal program.
For those who have followed this blog, I hope you have enjoyed the adventure with us. I will be preparing several presentations, so feel free to invite me to share one of them (e.g., Pilgrims in England; Pilgrims in Holland; Pilgrims in Plymouth; Monasteries; Provence (France); Alsace (France); Paris).
Onward.

Gratitude

An important part of "mindfulness" is learning to live gratefully in every moment. (The Apostle Paul wrote, you may recall, "Give thanks in all circumstances....") Some moments are easier than others; this is one of the easier ones:
As we prepare to wrap things up and head home, I want to express tremendous gratitude for what has been an experience of a lifetime. The list is not necessarily in order of importance... just the way it rolled out!
The Lilly Endowment: Thank you for believing in the proposal the church sent in, and for the grant that made my program and the church's possible. (Both I and the church now write an extensive report to the Endowment on our programs.)
The Church of the Palms: Thank you for writing sabbatical time into my terms of call, and for all the cooperation and interest you have shown. A special thank you goes to the planning team for working on the proposal last year and seeing the process through. Thank you to the staff and volunteers for weathering the changes and disruptions, for picking up the jobs that I had done before, and for taking good care of my mother when she was hospitalized... and after.
Cindy Fain: Thanks for faithfully coordinating our mail and other personal matters that came up.
Clint Reynolds: Thanks for serving so capably and enthusiastically as Acting Minister.
Summer Preachers / Seminar Leaders: Thanks for bringing your unique gifts and sharing them so freely.
Everyone who has held us in your prayers along the journey... thank you, you made a big difference.
This will be the final post... at least from Europe. A bientot! (See you soon.)

Happy Birthday, Kel!

Our daughter, Kelly, celebrates her birthday today... happy birthday, Kel... you are such a blessing to so many people! We spoke with Kel a few moments ago and we give such thanks for the person she has beccome, and the life that she (and we) share with Steve, Kayla and Aidan.
We spent yesterday on an open-top bus tour of Paris; it is a relaxing, informative way to see a wonderful city. Among the sites we saw, of course, was the Arche de Triomphe, commissioned by Napoleon I (pictured left).
Questions From Home, part 2:
Have there been surprises on this sabbatical?
Yes: Early on, in Farnborough (UK), we encountered the mausoleum of Napoleon III and the Empress Eugenie of France. We had never thought much about them. Well, so much of modern Paris is a result of the far-sightedness of NIII-- it is amazing. It gives me pause as I consider the importance of our ministry at The Palms; more to come on that. France wants their remains back-- no wonder!
How does this sabbatical compare with the one in '04?
Great question. In many ways, there is no comparison. In '04 it was all self-funded, and there was of a service focus (teaching in China and India). This sabbatical has been focused on learning and spiritual integration. I feel as though the Pilgrims are friends and personal acquaintances. I also feel a kinship with the artisans of medieval France.
Will the sabbatical impact your preaching and ministry?
You have no idea!!! Oh, yes. Poor people.

Picnic and Au Revoir

Mary's week here has flown by, and we are amazed at her ability to step into the entirely different rhythm of life here. She was an excellent guest and we all had a great time.
Yesterday we enjoyed one of our favorite things... a picnic on the steps of Eglise Sacre-Coeur (Sacred Heart Church) high atop Montmartre (Mount of the Martyrs) with a panoramic view of Paris stretching before us. Attached are the in-front-of and from-the-back views of mesdames enjoying bread, cheese, meat and some excellent wine.
Part of the joie de vivre of the steps is the excellent music and arts entertainment always ongoing. The whole experience is impossible to describe... ya gotta be there. Among yesterday's performers were two drama students to whom we made a gift in honor and memory of Katie.
A cafe visit and stroll around Ile de la Cite finished the day, and this morning we took a reluctant Mary to Charles de Gaulle airport for her flight home to Rhode Island.

Questions from home:
1) Are you ready to come back?
Three months is a really long time to be away, so yes, I am. It has been good to be "unhooked" from normal responsibilities and routines and free to pursue interests and new experiences. Now it is time to be home again.
2) Have you been able to find joy?
That is a tougher question. There have been many wonderful moments and experiences that I and we will be "unpacking" for a long time. We are so very grateful for all the pieces and people that have made this sabbatical possible, and I have some satisfaction at things being as I hoped they would be. At the same time, as we move through the grief process, using the word "joy" does not seem to fit. No, we are not "all better" by any means, and the sadness of losing Katie remains profound. We appreciate those who continue to pray with and for us.
Onward.

Cathedrals and Gift Shops

Mary's visit continues; here the cousins are in Luxembourg Gardens where we enjoyed a leisurely picnic, shared with an assortment of birds and bees.
This was a cathedral weekend... magnificent worship at Notre Dame on Saturday evening, and then a an hour's train trip to the medieval village of Chartres on Sunday.
The cathedral there (pictured) dominates the town and the surrounding area-- it can be seen from 25 miles away! Older than Notre Dame Paris, it was dedicated in 1160. (There has been a cathedral on the site since the 400s.) In both places the mighty organs were thundering... what a thrill. Built into the ancient Chartres floor stones is a huge labyrinth, a symbolic pathway to deeper spirituality. (I thought briefly of clearing away the chairs and people so I could use it.
Excuse me for this next item... I can't resist. I have long noted how gift shops are always positioned where you cannot avoid them... at the completion of a museum tour or exit from a theme park ride. We have made our way through hundreds this summer, but this one takes the cake... in a public toilet no less! Thankfully, the items for sale were not themed to the surroundings.
Since I mkentioned the public toilets: Unlike in the US, they are clean and safe here. There are two reasons: 1) You pay 1/2 euro to use them, and 2) there is an attendant on duty at all times. The attendants are on the public payroll, and are pleased to have a job with great security, 4-to-6 weeks' vacation, and a living wage.
Much of Paris is on the public payroll. The tax rate is high... it can be as much as 75%. With that comes free health care for everyone (so much in debate in the US now) and an admirable array of public services; for example, every street in Paris is cleaned every night.
Onward.

A Visit from RI

Liz' cousin, Mary, arrived Thursday from RI for a week. She is doing amazingly well with the jet lag, and is thrilled to fulfill a longtime dream by being here... especially seeing the Eiffel Tower for the first time. (I realized I had not included a picture of that... herewith corrected!)
Lunch near the Eiffel Tower provided an opportunity to discuss American sports with our waiter, who happened to be a Patriots fan. He was, however, unable to comment lucidly on the Yankees / Red Sox rivalry. ("Here we do not do ze bessbole.")
Yesterday we took a boat tour on the Seine, then walked back riverside to the Tuileries Garden, where we enjoyed a ride on the giant ferris wheel... erected only for the summer. From there the walk continued to the Louvre, where we enjoyed the sunset. (Pictured is the entrance pyramid with some of the Louvre to the left and also the beautiful arche de jardin.)
With ten days left in Paris, my thoughts and even dreams are turning to home and resuming life and ministry there. This has been a remarkable oddyssey, and in the next posts I will reflect on some of what I am taking away from the experience.
Onward!

A Concert at Sainte-Chappelle

Last night was a visual, historical, and soul-soothing treat. We walked two blocks to the Sainte-Chappelle complex. It was built in the mid-13th Century by the very devout King Louis IX at the center of the then royal palace. The "chapel" was meant for his private use, and to house the crown of thorns... yes, purportedly the one the Romans used on Jesus before the crucifixion. (You will see in the picture-below- the 'throne' in the center, high up, intended for the crown.)
Now, before you roll your eyes... the crown actually has a pretty good provenance. (It is currently housed at Notre Dame, taken there for safety during the anti-religion French Revolution.) You can do some Googling if you want to learn more... the thorns are long gone, but the twisted-reed "crown" remains and is brought out on the first Friday of every month.
As you can see, the chapel is an exquisite example of high gothic architecture. What is remarkable is the amount of beautiful stained glass that surrounds the nave... without the walls caving in. It surpassed Notre Dame for its light, airy, uplifting feeling. Much of the original paint and decoration is intact. (The windows were removed and hidden away as the Germans approached during WWII.)
The concert was one of Vivaldi, featuring The Four Seasons, with Pachelbel's Canon in D tossed in. The musicians were superb (6 strings and a harpsichord), and the acoustics and setting were stunning. It seems impossible to me to experience that and then doubt that music is a pure language of the soul.
Today had a slow start... with coffee and tea on the terrace, as usual. We then took a walk up into the St. Suplice neighbiorhood for a visit to Liz' favorite porcelain store (several of you have received gifts from there over the years). On the walk back we stopped to eat at a Mexican restaurant, where Liz and I enjoyed the essence of sidewalk dining (pictured)! We walk more when we are here, and it feels good.
We stopped at Monoprix for some wine and the makings of fresh guacomole... then "home" for some reading and another Paris evening.
Onward.

The American Church, Paris

Another clear, sunny day dawned, and after I made breakfast (using the French coffee press that Steve explained to me), it was off to the American Church in Paris. Liz and I had visited there in the past, but had never worshiped there.
The church is non-denominational, founded in 1857. The minister, Scott Herr, came here last year from Fort Collins, CO-- where Doris and Allan Gott now live. The impressive stone building was built in the 1920's and patterned after Riverside Church in NYC (UCC & American Baptist). As you can see, the sanctuary is also impressive, and has beautiful stained glass all around it. A 10-year-old pipe organ was played with panache. I especially enjoyed the incredible tenor soloist today, who sang from Handel's Messiah.
The church is located along the left bank of the Seine River, halfway between our apartment and the Eiffel Tower... such a spot!
Once again I have been brought to an example of Christian unity (e.g., they baptize or dedicate babies) to which I will pay careful attention. While clearly Christian, the church consists of people from all over the world and every major religion. Fascinating.
The service was much more traditional than I expected... entirely led by black-robed clergy. One interesting touch: Instead of sending the children out of the snactuary for their class time, they remained there, in the front, working on a project that was introduced during the children's message. I like that idea. Hmmmm.....
The ACP (American Church Paris) also has a contemporary service at 1:30 p.m.-- I may try that next Sunday to see what they do.
We miss Kelly, Steve, Kayla and Aidan. As I descended the steps to the Metro, there was no little hand in mine seeking a ride down. We assume they are home safe and sound in California, if a bit jet-lagged.
Later this evening: a concert in Saint-Chappelle, started in 1239 by King Louis IX. More tomorrow.

An Arduous Assumption

I happened to note the link to this blog on the Southwest Conference UCC website... the description says this blog concerns my arduous sabbatical journey in Europe-- casting aspersions on my rigorous schedule. Originally blaming the Conference Minister, I now find I must vent on the Director of Communications. All in good time, all in good time.
Happy Assumption Day! Today Paris is celebrating the assumption of Mary, mother of Jesus, into heaven. The epicenter is Notre Dame Cathedral, of course. Kel, Steve and the kids were treated (on their last night here) to a stunning procession of lights and angelic music along the Seine River past the church last evening. As I write now the organ is thundering and what must be a choir of hundreds is singing beautiful hymns that echo all over "our" neighborhood. Yesterday we gazed in through an open door to the altar, where the bishop was presiding... again backed by etheral music. You don't need to be Catholic to be swept up in the spiritual depth of what is clearly a very big deal here.
Our family deserted us this morning to go home and start school. (Kayla begins 1st grade Monday, and Aidan begins preschool the following Monday.) We escorted them to Charles deGaulle Airport this morning, and saw them off with reluctance. We spent a wonderful two weeks together, with a lot more going on than sightseeing: Our relationships with Aidan and Kayla deepened significantly; we all had the sense that Katie was very much with us; I feel about this time much as I did about the monastery visits. I will need to reflect more.
Pictured at left is our visit to the giant ferris wheel and carnival set up each summer in the Tuileries Garden adjacent to the Louvre Museum (which you can see in the background). From the wheel you can see for miles in all directions (similarly to the Millenium Wheel in London). We also enjoyed other rides and some romping in the Tuileries playground. And yes-- we also did Paris Disneyland.
Aidan and Kayla soaked in the magic of Paris readily, as did Kel and Steve. The food, the sights, the people, the pace, the indescribable je ne sais quois blend with remarkable effect. They, and we, enjoyed (way more than their dad did) a hot-air balloon ride (right) and view of Paris.
The kids also had an elevator adventure yesterday morning. Liz and I were roused from our hotel room early by Steve yelling in the street outside... "Kelly and the kids are stuck in the elevator!" We hustled down the street, and sure enough, the elevator decided to stop about a yard up from where it was supposed to (as it likes to do from time-to-time)-- and since Kelly had not brought the key with her needed to send it back up, she was stuck. She was calm, and so were the kids. Liz ran out for the police, fire, sanitation, maintenance and tourism departments. Cool-in-a-crisis Steve got a butter knife and began removing the screws holding the safety glass in the elevator door... and it worked! After about 45 minutes the window came out and we were able to get a key into the elevator. They all used the stairs (7 flights) for the rest of their stay.
So we are back in the apartment (trsuting the elevator), feeling more and more at home with the rhythm of life here.
Onward.

Mindful in Paris

It has been a whirlwind week... showing Paris to Kel, Steve and kids -- and the art of using the efficient Metro (subway).
Kel and Steve left very early Friday morning, against Aidan's advice, for a weekend away on their own... and Kayla and Aidan stayed with us. They were on their super-best behavior, and we had a great time together. Sharing life with 6-and-3-year-olds for several days is an object lesson in being rooted in the moment! ("Mindfulness" is much more than that... but it is a good start.) Aidan's days were puncutated with "that's AWESOME!" and "WICKED awesome!" and "I'm going to do this EVERY day!" Yesterday, after touching a stuffed goat outside a restaurant, he sang an impromptu song all the way to the apartment; the words are simple... "I love goats, I love goats, I really love goats, I love goats..."
Our forays have included several public parks with playgrounds; an excursion inside Notre Dame church, where they were awed by its sheer size and dazzling stained glass; an odyssey to find an appropriate toy store... finally successful as we returned with bubble-making stuff (a hoot off the balcony) and pick-up sticks and a Mr. Potato Head for the bath; 2 trips to Jardin d'Acclimation with its lovely grounds, animals, and rides that we all could enjoy; and (of course) countless Metro rides and grocery shopping at Monoprix. In my sleep I am hearing, "Poppy, can I ride on your shoulders now? My legs won't work." Kayla observed that maybe it would be a good idea to live here... until she realized that her friends and extended family are elsewhere.
Kel and Steve returned today, and Liz and I are 'holeing up' at a nearby hotel. We are grateful for these past days and also keenly aware of our loss of Katie.
A note about 'Paris pace': Paris is a large city population-wise, but is really a collection of 20 smaller towns. There is a laid-back air to life here; Kelly is struck at this difference from New York and L.A. There is a peculiarly small-town feel in the midst of 2 million people!
One sidelight: There have been four attempts (that I know of) to pick-pocket me-- two of them almost successful. My response has been immediate and angry each time; the aftermath has been an opportunity to reflect on mindfulness in its greater meaning-- awareness of the many levels in the simplest encounter.
Onward.

Skype / Family Arrives

The posts may get a bit more infrequent... life has suddenly kicked into a higher gear!
Sunday's "Skype-in" to King Hall went well. (OK, we had to re-make the call few times before we got it perfectly.) It was to see and hear folks from back home and share just a little of what we are experiencing here. (My mom thinks the whole thing was utter wizardry, and cannot imagine where I got my brains. "Not from me," she says.)
Monday morning, the California contingent arrived and we met them at Charles deGaulle airport. We have turned the small apartment over to them and moved a few doors away into our favorite hotel on our favorite street (Rue de la Huchette). You can see it pictured at the left, just outside the hotel-- with Poppy playing the part of a camel. This is a very old street lined with cafes and shops and teeming with life... pretty much around the clock! It was left untouched in the 19th Century when the architect/planner Haussman re-did Paris with wide boulevards and mansard roofs.
What a day we had yesterday... a hike of 15 miles took us all over the left and right banks. We visited St. Sulpice Church (made famous by The DaVinci Code), then spent considerable time in the Luxemborg Garden... acres and acres of laid-back beauty with all sorts of great things to do for kids of all ages. (Pictured at the right, Paris's two newest French kids pose on a very old Catalpa tree in the garden.)
From there it was a long, beautiful walk across to the right bank, past the Louvre (more than a mile long itself!), the Tuilleries, on to Place de la Concorde (where the guillotine once stood), all the way up the Champs Elysee (where the barriers from the end of the Tour de France are still in place), and up the Arc de Triomphe. (We made the return trip by Metro.)
Having the grandchildren here adds intensity to all of the experiences, and really kicks "mindfulness" up a notch.
Onward.

Playful Paris

The rehearsal for Sunday's "skype-in" to King Hall went well. The church now has a new laptop computer which will help us a lot. I look forward to seeing and hearing many of you after the worship service tomorrow!
In anticipation of arrival of Kel, Steve, Aidan and Kayla we have been scouting the city for kid-friendly places. As it turns out, this is not a problem. Paris has enormous green spaces filled with pony, hot-air balloon, and mechanical rides at reasonable prices! Pictured (left) is the Luxembourg Palace and gardens... home of kings in the past and the French Senate these days, along with pony rides, tennis courts, and a HUGE playground. Just beautiful.
Also, along the Seine River from mid-July to mid-August there is the Paris Plage (Paris Beach)... tons of sand, palm trees and chairs placed all along the river in central Paris to create a beach atmosphere!
Today we walked a lot ... including past the old towers where Marie Antionette was held prisoner prior to her execution (pictured right) along the Seine River. We jumped on the Metro for a ride out to the Jardin d'Acclimation and its live anmials, exotic birds, lush greenery, and wonderful rides all aimed for kids 3-10 years old; Aidan and Kayla will be ecstatic! (So will Poppy.)
Our biggest surprise has been the weather: We were expecting really hot and wet; au contraire, it has been lovely (mid-70s-80) and dry. So much for the tourist guides.
Parisian culture makes great room for children and animals in its everyday culture (both are welcome almost everywhere). The generations are not nearly as fragmented as they are in the U.S. There is much to ponder.
Onward!

Market Day

Today leaves us feeling a bit more Parisian. We began with a 10-minute walk to the open-air market at Place Maubert (pictured), a beautiful square with a fountain and classic Metro station. There, every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, farmers bring fresh produce for the locals to buy. We picked up some excellent tomatoes and juicy nectarines, and admired the variety of other goods available. (Just when was it that we in the U.S. lost touch with locally-grown food and neighborhood markets?)
From there we took a walk along historic Boulevard St. Germain, with a stop at the beautiful Cluny park, site of Roman baths dating to AD 200 and a lovely museum and park today. We THOUGHT we were headed for a sample of the best hot chocolate in Paris... but the Patisserie Viennoise is closed for the month of August (as are many places). We will check back on that later.
Then there was a stop at the flower market (which becomes a pet bird market on Sundays) across from Notre Dame Church, in operation for hundreds of years. Liz picked up several plantings for our terrace, which is now a lot more colorful. A stop along the way for lunch and, later, some french fries (frites) made a great day.
Paris note: Spaces here are small, as a city of 2 million people is squeezed into a small area. This applies most particularly to elevators! The one is this building is (relatively) large, but it decides when and where it will stop. It and Liz are not friends. It will decide, instance, to stop with a grand lurch and throw its doors open smack in between floors. Yesterday, when we returned to the bottom, Liz hopped out and said "I am walking up." Well, seven flights later she was having second thoughts! The correct attitude is think of it as a game chance: Will the elevator start on the first button-push or the fifth? Will it stop where it should right away, or will we have a go at it several times?
Coming up: A "dry-run" for Sunday's Skype-in to King Hall. Onward.

Settling into Paris

Ok... you are right, the picture is the same as yesterday's, only at night. I am surprised I was able to get such a clear picture to be perfectly honest. What the pictures do not convey is the life and energy of central Paris. I hope those of you who can be in King Hall Sunday morning will get some of that.
Today we tackled some practical matters (grocery shopping, etc.) and visited some familiar haunts in the neighborhood, including a favorite cafe for lunch. It is not necessary to spend a fortune here; lunch at the cafe included a large bowl of spaghetti bolognese, a large pizza, a coke, and wine... all for $32 including tip. (The same meal at night would be much more.) Wonderful sandwiches on fresh baguette bread are readily available for around $5. Of course, making them yourself if even less costly... but eating on the streets of Paris is a unique joy.
I enjoy the challenge of settling in to a different culture, and discovering its rhythms and (to me) idiosyncracies. I have learned that some common things Americans do are perceived as inexplicably rude here. For example: We think of going into a store as a commercial venture... about buying something, handing over money, and leaving without any thought to the people. For the French, when you enter their store it is as though you step into their home; eye contact and a "Bonjour, Madame" or "Bonjour, Monsieur" is met with a smile. It is not necessary to buy anything. To leave without a "Bon journee, Madame" is insulting. It takes some getting used to, but such behavior really does add to the quality of life!
Similarly, a meal is an event to savor, with conversation with the staff as well as with each other. Why all the rush? To wolf down food and then call out, "Check, please!" means, to Parisians, that they are not considered worthy company and have served bad food... the ultimate insult!
All of this has a tie-in to the central Buddhist understanding of "mindfulness"-- which includes being fully-present in each moment (not stuck in the past or consumed with the future). Our American culture has lost much of what it once knew of this art. We will try to soak in as much as we can while we are here, and bring some home to share. In the meantime, savor THIS moment for all that it has.
Onward.

Arrival in Paris

We had a good trip across central France on the TGV (bullet train)... Colmar to Paris in 2.5 hours! (Just a few years ago it was a 10-hour trip.) Once in Paris, we hopped on Metro #4 and in a few minutes were in "our" neighborhood, at Place St. Michael on the Left Bank (near the Sorbonne).
After a walk down the lively Rue de la Huchette (with an abundance of Greek restaurants), we arrived at our destination, #2 Petit Pont. We were met by Gabriel, who showed us our home for the next 5 weeks-- a small, wonderful apartment on the 6th (top) floor of a building facing the Ile de la Cite, one of the two original Paris islands. From the terrace we have an amazing view of Notre Dame Cathedral... as you can see in the picture to the left. It is hard to imagine we will have the pure beauty of this view for these weeks!
We settled in, and then took a walk to a local grocery to pick up some fresh produce and supplies.
Among the things that please us here are the light, bright atmosphere in the apartment, full appliances, an excellent WiFi signal, and the location. For those who have not been to Paris, I will do my best to give you an introduction and a "feel" for this amazing city in the days ahead.
Onward.

Alsace Wine Road

First, a response to a question re: Cluny/Taize: As far as I know, there is no train service. There may be some local bus service...not sure as I had a rented car to make the trip.
Yesterday we thoroughly explored the fascinating town of Colmar, population ~43,000. We learned a lot of its history and local characters... including the sculptor Bertoli (Statue of Liberty, a large copy of which greets people on the way into town).
The Alsatians have their own dialect of ancient German, close to what is spoken in Austria. (Of course they also speak French.) The Alsatian dialect is dying out among the younger generation.
Today we signed up for a tour of three other "wine road" towns plus an enormous castle first built in 1144. I am posting a couple of pictures from our tour... this is simply a beautiful, clean, flower-filled area. We also stopped for some wine tasting, and learned quite a bit about the white wines featured here and the various varietals.
PILGRIM CONNECTION: The Alsace region was a haven for Protestants, Huguenots, Walloons, and Amish. A sizable group wound up in Holland, and encountered the English Separatists there. A few were among the Mayflower travelers.
Tomorrow we travel by TGV (bullet train) to Paris... about 2.5 hours. We received the good news last night that Liz' cousin Mary may join us for a few days in Paris. Onward.

Colmar, day 2

We awakened in the wee (think 5 a.m.) hours to the sounds of hammering and clanking. It turns out that today is the annual (as in one day per year) HUGE street market in Colmar! I took a picture (left) early in the day from our balcony. (NOTE: The 'Casino' in the picture is a French grocery chain, not a gambling emporium!)
Colmar is a sweet, relaxed, lovely place... and we chose a very slow place today. Over the weekend we will tour other villages along the "wine road" but for now it is slow and easy.
Later in the day we had Skype chats with the Rev. Seth Polley (some of you may remember him from last year's ecumenical retreat; he is the Episcopal missioner for the Mexican border) and Kelly, Steve, Kayla and Aidan ... these were separate chats, of course.
CHANGE: We have changed our itinerary; the time at Plum Village (Buddhist) Monastery will not work out. We had planned a 4-day visit, but they insist on 7 days as a minimum. So.... we will head to Paris when we leave Colmar, several days ahead of the plan. (I will study the teachings of the Buddhist leader on my own... especially his focus on 'mindfulness'-- more on that to come.)
Onward.

Colmar, in Alsace

I was pried out of the hotel in Strasbourg, taken to the train station, and Liz and I took a 45-minute train trip to Colmar, the second-largest town in Alsace. Okay, I was wrong yesterday: Colmar is a slightly smaller (but just as pretty) version of Strasbourg. We are staying along what is known as the "wine road" of Alsace, and all of these villages are delightful.
Strasbourg's oldest part was called "La Petitte France" (Little France). Not to be outdone, the oldest section of Colmar is called "La Petite Venise" (Little Venice)... complete with canals and these amazing daub-and-wattle medieval buildings. Our hotel, the St. Martin, (pictured above left) dates from 1361. Zounds. (It is the corner building on the right... we are on the second floor.)
Now, just so that you will understand how arduous this all is, I close with a picture to the right... actually from Roussillon, but you get the idea.
Onward.

Strasbourg take #2

Well, Strasbourg is one of the all-time favorites, for sure. The day began with breakfast in our room, included in the Liz-special rate (pictured left). Coffee, tea, pain au chocolate, yogurt, croissants... you name it. And all enjoying the view and the wonderful room. If you read in the newspaper about an American who barricaded himself in a room and would not leave... that would be me.
This afternoon we took a leisurely walk along the beautiful main canal, and then took a boat tour around all of the old city. Pictured at the right is one of the amazing 16th Century homes that are common here.
PILGRIM CONNECTION: Guttenburg perfected the printing press here. Such printing was the direct stimulus for the Reformation... and the Separatists (Pilgrims) once they were able to have bible in English. This revelation was unexpected but welcome!
The region of Alsace Lorraine has been independent, then German, then French, then German, then independent... then French. Wow. The Alsacians have their own language but also speak French and English! (There is also a significant middle-eastern population here as well.)
Tonight we sat IN the street at a cafe for a meal of pizza and french fries... and some nice wine. Later on, I did a dress-rehearsal for the Skype-in on August 2. (That day, after the service, I will be on the "big screen" in King Hall to say hi to folks at Church of the Palms and also be able to see and hear them!
Tomorrow we move on to Colmar. Onward!

Strasbourg

After some low-key days in Aix, which is pretty and slow, we drove to the Marseille airport and turned in the car and Celine. We boarded a very small jet (much to Liz' delight.... not) and made the 1-hour hop to the Alsace region (on the German border) and the enchanting city of Strasbourg.
We have been trying to visit here for a long time; it just never seemed to work out before. Liz found the deal of all deals on the room of all rooms... literally straddling the central canal in this story-book place. As a I write, there is a brass band concert going on in the square... just for us? Maybe not.
Strasbourg blends the best of Germany and France... clean, neat and yet gracious and filled with joie de vivre. We took a walk around the old city (Petite France), found a grocery store, and stocked up on fresh tomatoes. The buildings date to the 15th and 16th Century, are well-maintained, and give a timeless sense of beauty. Don't believe me? Check out the picture from outside our hotel.
We will be here for two nights. Onward.

Aix-en-Provence

On a picture-perfect weather day, after a stunningly beautiful drive over mountains and through villages, we arrived yesterday afternoon in this city which dates from about 200 B.C. (It is built on several hot springs, which the Romans loved.)
Our hotel (St. Christophe) sits adjacent to the signature fountain (pictured left)... Aix (pronounced "ecks") is often called the city of 1,000 fountains.
The main street, Cours Mirabeau, runs from this fountain. This was "where it was at" in the 16th and 17th Centuries, with large homes and prestigious shops ... now cafes and galleries. In the center of the picture you will see a Roman fountain of hot mineral water still running (pictured right)!
Today, another bright clear one, we ventured into the old city where we happened on the weekly farmers' market (pictured left). The produce and fish were fresh and aromatic... we came back with some great tomatoes, which we are enjoying as I write. We stopped in the square for lunch at a delightful cafe (where we enjoyed delicious pasta) that also gave us a bird's-eye view of them tearing down the market and cleaning it up. (It is really is fascinating to watch other people work....)
Random musings: I have continued to read and learn about Taize, believing that there is something truly extraordinary there to which I am supposed to pay attention. For those who have dreamed about what Christian unity might look like, there it is in action. If you are interested, Google "taize" on YouTube or just a general search and see for yourself.

Metro Rousssillon

We have been day-tripping to surrounding towns, all quaint in their own way.
Yesterday we headed for Apt, larger than most, with NO parking anywhere. Thinking I could find a spot on a side street, I headed in... and in... until it all came to a dead end with nowhere for me to go or turn. Hmmm. Ultimately it meant backing all the way out (with crucial help from Liz), dripping in sweat. Celine got us home after we cruised around for a bit, exploring the hills nearby.
Last night we again walked beautiful Roussillon, with its colorful and dramatic cliffs (one pictured left). Restaurants and houses perch precariously at the edges, must closer than would be allowed in the USA.
Today we paid a visit to Isle-sur-la-Sorgue ("island on the Sorgue River"). Built on pilings in the river in the 11th Century (!) it is now called "the Venice of France" not without reason. Its streets are windy, quaint, and filled with shops and cafes and canals. Though the mills are long-gone, some of the water wheels are in place and still working (pictured right).
This evening we are enjoying our last look out over the valley below. Tomorrow we move to Aix-en-Provence.
Onward.

On to Roussillon

After perusing the extensive market-day in St. Remy, we headed through lush countryside on the way to the very old hill-top town of Rousillon (pictured left), to the west.
Several things were striking about the trip:
1) The GPS is an invaluable help; we have named the voice Celine... God bless Celine;
2) The roads approaching the Provence villages rival those in the Cotswolds in narrowness-- but at least people drive on the right side of the road;
3) The roads inside the village are narrower still; hit your target on the first pass or drive around a LONG time trying to get back to it (didn't I just find THAT out this afternoon);
3) The scenery is beautiful at every turn, as the lavender and sunflowers are in full bloom.
The soil and rocks in Roussillon are reminiscent of Sedona... the orange/red is vibrant. The sheer drop-off on all sides from the village is dramatic. Our room has a large terrace with a magnificent view (pictured right).
We explored the village church... small but beautiful... and climbed to the highest point in the village before settling in for a light supper and then enjoying the evening and sunset on our terrace. A spot of wine, anyone?

Bastille Day en Provence

Happy Bastille Day... the French 4th of July... remembering the start of the French Revolution and the beginning of the First Republic in 1789. There was a small ceremony in the town center this morning, followed by a very short parade. Last night there were some fireworks around.
The weather is hot and muggy here, the kind that saps energy after a short time. Like most Mediterranean cultures, an afternoon siesta is the custom here; things close between 2:30 and 5 each afternoon. Liz wisely chose our hotels to have air conditioning; not many do.
You can see (left) the view from our room over the hotel grounds to the Alpilles Mountains... foothills to the Alps.
Yesterday we took a circle tour of this part of Provence, passing through small, beautiful villages on the way to Nimes. There we visited the amazing Pont du Gard (Gard River Bridge--pictured right), built by the Romans in 20 B.C.! It is the best-preserved Roman aqueduct anywhere, designed to carry water to the then-thriving Roman city of Nimes. It is three levels, standing about 150 feet from the river bed. Across its 30+ miles the total descent is only 17 inches... talk about engineering.
We also drove into Avignon, but finding a place to park was hopeless.
St. Remy is a bustling village (pictured left), with shops and restaurants everywhere. We have found a couple of bistros that we like, and a "glacier" (ice cream parlor) that made this afternoon a bit cooler.
Onward.

En Provence

Today's blog title was the title of one of my French text books in High School; I remember reading about life here but this is our first visit. We are in the typically French hill-town of St. Remy in Provence, in southern France (an hour from the Mediterranean). It is near Avignon, the home of the non-Roman Popes in the medieval free-for-all as the Roman empire collapsed. Exploring the area and its history will be fascinating.
Getting here was an adventure... French weekend highway traffic in the summer is intense. The back-ups at the toll houses were long; there were other stoppages for which I could not find an explanation-- other than that is just how it is! Altogether we were on the road for about 5 hours (with no meal stops). The change in the weather is noticeable: Suddenly it is summer.
Along the way we passed huge fields of brilliant sun flowers in full bloom. Liz captured one as we drove by (pictured). The French countryside is beautiful, at times much like California and at others more like Tuscany.
Follow-up Taize musings: In my reflections, I was struck at a similarity between the Taize experiment and the Pilgrims: In both cases a new community was formed to establish an authentic Christian presence that unites rather than divides. The styles are quite different, but the driving motivation is similar. I find myself powerfully drawn to that inclusive, unifying vision.
Onward.

Taize (cont.)

In Memoriam: Barbara Silvester. You may recall my earlier post about my Dad's cousin Barbara, whom we visited in a nursing home in Massachusetts. I just received word that she has died there. Confined for 85 years in a much-diminished body, she is now free. I invite you to join in prayer blessing her on her way... at last freed from the body that limited her activity (but never her spirit).
Today marks the last of the Taize bible sessions. It turns out the instructor has been the head honcho of Taize... brother Alios (sorry for the poor quality picture of him). He succeeded Brother Roger, the founder, who was attacked and killed during an evening service several years ago. (Yikes) I did not guess at Bro. Alios's "rank" as he dresses casually, is very unassuming, with a great sense of humor and a wonderful way of teaching the bible. He has rehabilitated the Gospel of John for me. (Or rehabilitated my perceptions.)
Attached also is a video clip from today's prayer service.
I am also attaching a picture of one of the "tent cities" where people live while on a week here. (We opted to stay in nearby Cluny.)
My Taize time has been tantalizing and has been a peaceful and helpful interlude. The learning and worship has blended with some of the personal reading I have been doing in meaningful ways. No, I will not be enrolling as a Taize brother... but it is an intriguing place and I would love to come back with a group at some point.
I close with a shot of ancient buildings next to our hotel in Cluny. This is the view from ouitside the internet cafe heading back to the hotel.
We leave here tomorrow and head south. Onward.

Taize Community / Cluny

Finding an internet connection is tricky here ... so there has been some "quiet time" -- a good way to begin the next monastery segment of this journey. We flew back to Gatwick airport (London) and then on to Lyon, France. We slept at an airport hotel, and yesterday picked up another rental car and headed for the little village of Cluny, about 7 miles from the amazing Taize Community, which I have wanted to visit for many years.
Our hotel adjoins the 10th Century ruins of an abbey here! The village is really charming, and reminds me much of Cortona, in Italy, where we spent 5 weeks in 1995.
The Taize Community is truly ecumenical, in a most exciting way. Founded by Brother Roger in the early 1960's, somehow it has garnered official Vatican sanction to welcome EVERYONE to the altar and community. I am enjoying the daily bible study and prayer services-- the swelling music in spontaneous 4-part harmony is incredible.
There are about 2,000 people at Taize this week... down from the normal 4,000! Of those, only about 200 are over 30!! (They keep us carefully segregated so we won't pollute the others.) This is definitely an expereinced aimed at youth.
Each week here has a theme; this week's is the Gospel of John, chapters 14-16, on which I preached from the lectionary this Spring. It is very interesting to hear it from a totally different perspective. There are many things I have heard that I am aching to explore with someone... we shall see.
I will try to post some picture if I can get back on-line from here. Onward!

Delfshaven

Well, the walking/canal tour of Delft was drowned out by powerful thunderstorms... worthy of an Arizona monsoon! Around noon I braved the elements, walked to the train station, and headed for Rotterdam, in which Delfshaven now is. (In the days of the Pilgrims, it was the harbor for the then-larger city of Delft).
Just as I stepped off the tram in Deflshaven, the skies opened up again! Contrary to my usual style, I headed in the right direction and found the spot I was seeking in about 10 minutes.
When the Pilgrims left Leiden by barge, this was their destination. According to tradition, they boarded the Speedwell at the spot that now has the Pilgrim Fathers Church (pictured). The drawbridge on which I was standing is at the spot of the dock from which they left.
Musings: What were they thinking and feeling... given all they had been through? Now they were headed back to England; that must not have been the greatest of feelings, even though King James had indicated he would not interfere with them. (English Kings were known to change their minds rather abruptly... and heads would fly.) Did they have any idea what lay ahead for them?
They put in at Southampton, where they joined up with the Mayflower, intending to cross the Atlantic on both ships. After some dirty dealing by merchants and backers, they headed out... only to have Speedwell spring leaks. They put into Dartmouth for repairs, then headed out again. Same results: Speedwell started leaking when they were about 100 miles out. This time they put in at Plymouth, offloaded about 1/3 of the people and a lot of their provisions. Records show that 102 people somehow stuffed themselves onto the Mayflower for the dangerous, stormy, and off-course trip, during which there were 2 deaths.
Interesting speculation: There is a school of thought that says the Speedwell was purposely over-rigged,, causing the leaks. There was more money (and less risk) to be made running goods around England, and this way he could keep some of the Pilgrims' money anyway. (They really were beset on every side by scoundrels.)
This marks the end of the "Pilgrim Trek" part of my sabbatical. As it happens, we also are going from here to England tomorrow... but only to switch planes and head into France. I will be processing what I have learned from and about them for some time. Onward.

Delft

We are now in the lovely, smaller city of Delft, famous for its blue-and-white pottery. Our hotel (Emauspoort) is in the center of the old city. (This is our preference in order to be right where things are with little or no walk.) From our 2nd-story windows we look over chock-full window flower boxes to see the most-painted bridge and canal in the city, along the side of the New Church (dating from the 1300's!), and into the main square beyond (pictured).
Tomorrow we will take a walking-and-canal tour of the city, and then visit Delfshaven, now part of Rotterdam, from where the Pilgrims set sail aboard the Speedwell to meet up with the Mayflower in Southampton, England.
Response to Mac: Jeremy Bangs was very informative for sure. We have run into his work everywhere online and in print. He is quite the authority on all things Pilgrim!
Onward.

4th of July in Leiden, Amsterdam

Happy 4th to everyone in the US! It is meaningful to be here on this day where arguably US democracy was born. Among the innovations that the Pilgrims picked up in Holland was the idea of locally elected representation. (They also adopted Holland's civil marriage laws... but that is another story.)
We returned to the old city, visiting an antique shop where Liz picked up a beautiful little porcelain watering bowl meant for a bird cage that dates to about 1600; for us it will be a bud vase and reminder of this place.
We took a walking tour of Pilgrim sites... visiting the Town Hall where Pilgrims couples went to register their marriages; St. Peter's Church where their remarkable pastor, John Robinson, is buried; the spot nearby where Robinson lived and twelve other Pilgrim families built small homes in his garden; and the very steps (pictured left) from which the Pilgrims likely went onto a barge to begin their trip from Leiden to Delftshaven to board the Speedwell. Amazing.
We also stopped by a second museum... the Pilgrim Archives (pictured right) which houses a higher-tech presentation of the Pilgrims' time here. It is located along the lovely Vliet Canal, down which the Pilgrims moved as they left for the New World.
After a canal-side meal, we decided to hop the train and take the short trip to Amsterdam. There we took a canal tour around the old city, treated with one beautiful sight after another (pictured left). This was the place the Pilgrims were for a year before heading to Leiden. They arrived and joined with other refugee English Protestants, intending to stay. Before long there were theological controversies between the various groups, and the Scrooby congregation (Richard Clyfton and John Robinson's) thought it best to relocate to Leiden. Of course, in Leiden there more controversies... not the least of which concerned infant baptsim and the role of predestination vs. free-will.
Some miscellaneous notes: The weather has been magnificent. Bikes are EVERYWHERE here; in Amsterdam we passed a four-level parking garage for hundreds of thousands of them! Tonight is our last night at De Beukenhof (beuken=tree, hof=house); our suite dates from the 1300's, which means it was old when the Pilgrims were here. My goodness.
Onward to Delft tomorrow.