Monday, August 17, 2009

A Concert at Sainte-Chappelle

Last night was a visual, historical, and soul-soothing treat. We walked two blocks to the Sainte-Chappelle complex. It was built in the mid-13th Century by the very devout King Louis IX at the center of the then royal palace. The "chapel" was meant for his private use, and to house the crown of thorns... yes, purportedly the one the Romans used on Jesus before the crucifixion. (You will see in the picture-below- the 'throne' in the center, high up, intended for the crown.)
Now, before you roll your eyes... the crown actually has a pretty good provenance. (It is currently housed at Notre Dame, taken there for safety during the anti-religion French Revolution.) You can do some Googling if you want to learn more... the thorns are long gone, but the twisted-reed "crown" remains and is brought out on the first Friday of every month.
As you can see, the chapel is an exquisite example of high gothic architecture. What is remarkable is the amount of beautiful stained glass that surrounds the nave... without the walls caving in. It surpassed Notre Dame for its light, airy, uplifting feeling. Much of the original paint and decoration is intact. (The windows were removed and hidden away as the Germans approached during WWII.)
The concert was one of Vivaldi, featuring The Four Seasons, with Pachelbel's Canon in D tossed in. The musicians were superb (6 strings and a harpsichord), and the acoustics and setting were stunning. It seems impossible to me to experience that and then doubt that music is a pure language of the soul.
Today had a slow start... with coffee and tea on the terrace, as usual. We then took a walk up into the St. Suplice neighbiorhood for a visit to Liz' favorite porcelain store (several of you have received gifts from there over the years). On the walk back we stopped to eat at a Mexican restaurant, where Liz and I enjoyed the essence of sidewalk dining (pictured)! We walk more when we are here, and it feels good.
We stopped at Monoprix for some wine and the makings of fresh guacomole... then "home" for some reading and another Paris evening.
Onward.

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